Paris is a magnet for visitors from all over the world, and its top historic and cultural sights more than merit the intensity of the attraction. The city’s reputation as one of the world’s most expensive places is also well justified. But if you think you need a huge budget to make the most of the capital of France, you’d be wrong.
Plenty of Paris’ magic emits from its abundant free activities. You can meet the artists of indie-spirited Belleville, visit museums like the Petit Palais and Musée Bourdelle, and cruise the Seine for free on your birthday. For something more offbeat, explore the abandoned railway of La Petite Ceinture, a hidden urban oasis, or dance the night away at drag bingo.
Find out how you can see Paris without breaking the bank using these travel tips.
1. Do a digital detox at a library that’s not just for literary buffs
Tiptoeing inside the stillness of the Oval Room at the Richelieu site of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, which was finished in 1932, is like finding a portal to the past. Shelves that rise up to the glass ceiling are stacked with over 20,000 books (many of which date back centuries) and 9000 comic books, all of which are available to visitors. From its ancient scrolls to modern classics, this library is a bibliophile’s paradise. Whether you’re a history buff, a literature lover or just looking for a cozy corner to get lost in a good book, this is the place to come. Grab a seat and soak in the magic.
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Planning tip: The Oval Room is free and open to all visitors (closed Sundays). It’s located in the historic neighborhood of the Jardin du Palais Royal, which is worth a wander for the gardens and the old boutiques tucked in the arches.
2. Explore Paris from its abandoned railway
La Petite Ceinture snakes above and below inner Paris for a 30km (19-mile) stretch of green space full of history and some of the city’s best street art. Built over 150 years ago, this abandoned railway – now a refuge for wildlife like foxes, as well as a playground for graffiti artists and urban explorers – is slowly being reclaimed by the city and turned into a promenade similar to New York’s High Line.
The railway fell out of use completely by 1993, after being replaced by the Paris metro network and motorized vehicles. Today, projects like Jardins du Ruisseau are transforming parts of it into an oasis of community gardens, and La REcyclerie and Hasard Ludique are establishing hybrid food and arts hubs inside the former stations.
Planning tip: Segments of the railway are closed to the public so look at the map of open sections before setting off. The guide also outlines itineraries for each section.
3. Brush up on art history at the Petit Palais
Visiting the Petit Palais in Paris has to be on every art and history enthusiast’s list because its brilliant permanent collection, which spans several centuries, is totally free. Built for the 1900 World Expo, the opulent museum features a semicircular garden, a beautifully decorated arcade and intricate details like wrought iron gates, majestic staircases and stained glass windows, which alone are worth a visit.
The displays trace the classical world and Middle Ages through to the art nouveau and impressionist periods, with masterpieces by Claude Monet and Camille Pissarro. An impressive gallery showcases 19th-century sculptures by artists such as Louis-Ernest Barrias and Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi. Regular temporary exhibitions put a fresh spin on French history through art too (there is a fee for entry to special shows). Make sure to set aside some time for a snack or coffee at the cafe in the circular central courtyard, laid with a blue-and-gold mosaic floor and surrounded by leafy gardens.
Planning tip: As with all museums in Paris, the Petit Palais gets quite crowded, so aim to go at opening time to get the huge spaces almost to yourself. Families with young children don’t have to queue – there is a dedicated entrance at the bottom of the stairs to the right.
4. Browse in the covered arcades
Paris’ covered shopping arcades shelter yet another side of the city and its unique history. These passages, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, are filled with quirky boutiques, old bookstores and places to eat. Though most were demolished due to the rise of department stores, a handful have survived, primarily in the 2nd, 9th and 10th arrondissements.
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Notable arcades include the ornate Passage du Grand Cerf; the Galerie Vivienne, with its mosaic floor; and Passage des Panoramas, the oldest arcade, known for its stamp shops and restaurants. Passage Choiseul has literary significance due to its association with writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline; Galerie Vero-Dodat is renowned for its antique stores; and Passage Brady, dubbed Little India for its South Asian eateries, should also be on your list. Each passage is a respite from the city bustle, making them perfect for a leisurely stroll rain or shine.
Planning tip: A smattering of excellent restaurants are hidden in these arcades, including Canard et Champagne, Racines and Astair in the Passage des Panoramas, as well as Caves Legrand in Galerie Vivienne.
5. Swap blockbuster museums for crowd-free art galleries
If you’re looking for a less crowded dive into Paris’ rich art scene, gallery hopping is where it’s at. Forget the packed museums – Paris has over 1000 contemporary art galleries, each offering revolving shows of the biggest artists and up-and-coming talent for free. Wander through the Marais, Belleville, Saint-Germain-des-Prés and even northeast of the Île-de-France and you’ll discover everything from cutting-edge contemporary works to street art.
The Marais probably has the highest concentration of galleries, including must-see Perrotin, Thaddeus Ropac (also check out its space in Pantin), Marian Goodman Gallery, Galerie Nathalie Obadia, Galleria Continua, Xippas and Almine Rech. For photography buffs, Polka Galerie is the place to be, especially on exhibition opening nights, when it showcases some of the world’s top photographers, including Sebastião Salgado. Belleville also brims with over 150 artists who welcome visitors to their workspaces every May for the Bellville Artists’ Open Studios. Whether you’re a connoisseur or just love to bask in the art world, these galleries give a more laid-back look at Paris’ art scene without having to brave the lines at the big museums.
Planning tip: The best way to explore the city’s art galleries is with a guide, like Alexandra Weinress, who organizes bespoke art walks that can be as compact or detailed as you like in either English or French.
6. Wander a garden of sculptures in an artist’s home
Nope, it’s not Auguste Rodin but his assistant Antoine Bourdelle. Later in his life, Bourdelle was a teacher to Alberto Giacometti and a pioneering sculptor in his own right. His dramatic, expressive works bridge the gap between classical and modern art, and he significantly influenced early-20th-century sculpture with his innovative techniques and bold forms. The artist’s former atelier and residence have been turned into the Musée Bourdelle, one of the most charming little museums in Paris, and admission to the permanent collection is free.
Bourdelle’s monumental bronze masterpieces are scattered among quiet gardens that wrap around several workshop and exhibition spaces. One of the former workshops is now a minimalistic cafe with art deco accents – it’s named Rhodia after the artist’s daughter, who also lived here. Tables are laid out in the shade on a big terrace in the summer, as well as inside a lemon-yellow dining room, where you can lunch on ceviche and empanadas made by Latin American restaurant Isana.
Planning tip: Hidden on a side street just steps from the busy Montparnasse station, the museum is closed on Mondays, and the last entry is at 5:40pm. While you’re in the area, climb up the Tour Montparnasse – it’s possibly the ugliest building in the city but it has the most magnificent 360-degree views of Paris. You’re also a seven-minute walk to the historic Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse, a great value restaurant with art nouveau interiors dating back to 1903.
7. Celebrate your birthday on the Seine
While a cruise on the Seine might get a few eye rolls from locals or frequent visitors, it’s a truly special way to see the city, no matter how many times you’ve been. Trips vary from simple guided tours to floating dinner cruises and parties, and you usually have to pay for the experience. But if it’s your birthday, the Vedettes de Paris company gifts you an hour-long guided cruise on the Seine free of charge. So grab your passport (as proof of your birthday) and head to the office at the port, which is by the Eiffel Tower. You can choose between listening to the tour guide in English or French, or you can grab an audio guide with a wider variety of languages. You’ll glide along the glittering water and past some of the city’s most remarkable landmarks, from the Louvre to the Musée D’Orsay and Notre Dame, then back to the Eiffel Tower.
Planning tip: It’s not possible to book ahead, so you have to show up on the day (until 6:30pm). You can bring up to two guests, but only the person whose birthday it is gets a free ticket.
8. Get lost in St-Ouen’s maze of flea markets
The Puces de St-Ouen is a must-visit spot, especially if you love a good treasure hunt. Hailed as one of the largest markets in the world, this sprawling bazaar just outside the city’s northern edge is a vintage lover’s dream. Wind through a maze of over 15 markets, totaling about 2500 stalls and shops with everything from retro furniture and clothing to rare antiques and collectibles.
What makes the Puces de St-Ouen so special is the lively, eclectic vibe. You can chat with passionate vendors, stumble upon unusual items and soak up the bohemian atmosphere in a fascinating glimpse into Parisian culture and history. And you’re sure to leave with more than just a few fabulous finds. A wooden spiral staircase from an old French mansion, anyone?
Planning tip: The best time to go is on Saturday morning from 10am on, when the market in full swing. Half the fun is discovering a spot to eat, either in the markets or on the main artery, rue des Rosiers (the one in St-Ouen, not the Marais, for GPS users). My favorite is Le Coq d’Or, which has been serving excellent couscous for years.
9. Dance the night away at a mini club with cutting-edge acts
Like any capital city, Paris brims with nightlife venues, each one more expensive than the last – unless you know where to go. If you’re on a tight budget and prefer not to splurge on entrance fees, then try Supersonic or Panic Room, both in Bastille. Not only are they totally free to get into, but they host emerging bands and performers, giving them an edge you don’t usually get in run-of-the-mill nightclubs. At Panic Room (open Wednesday to Saturday), there’s a bar upstairs, while the nightclub is in the basement. Happy hour from 7pm to 10pm includes €7 (US$8) cocktails and €4.50 (US$5) pints of Bud. At the equally industrial-looking Supersonic (open every night), the rock gigs and DJ nights are free to get into before 11pm.
10. Dabble in a spot of drag bingo
After a dreamy Sunday, what could possibly add more cheer to the evening than a bit of free drag bingo? Every week at the Parc de la Villette, a flamboyant cast leads a cheeky three-hour extravaganza of fun, top-notch pop and dance. It’s probably a good idea to have some grasp of French if you want to join in on the laughs or have a chance to win. Parisians don’t come here for the prizes (an old Tarantino DVD, if you’re lucky) but an atmosphere that’s the perfect remedy to Sunday blues. The show starts at 6pm, but get there at 5pm for a good seat.
11. Find out why Versailles is more than a palace
The Château de Versailles isn’t just a palace – it’s a whole vibe. From the gilded Hall of Mirrors, where kings once presided over their subjects (and raucous parties), to the meticulously manicured gardens with elaborate fountains, to Marie-Antoinette’s private hamlet away from the court’s watchful eye, every corner of Versailles tells a story.
Over 15 million people visit each year, making it one of the most popular attractions in the world. The gardens are free to visit all year round (except during special events), and the whole estate is completely free on the first Sunday of each month from November to March. Get there early as the lines can be long.
Planning tip: The suburb of Versailles, a 45-minute journey out of Paris’ center, is known for being just as expensive as the capital, so make sure to buy something to eat at a bakery before arriving, then enjoy it on the lawns in the warmer months. To take in the whole palace, set aside at least half a day.
Rooksana Hossenally is one of the authors of the Lonely Planet Paris guidebook.