You’ve most likely been asked this classic icebreaker: “Would you rather live on a beach, in a city, on a lake or in the mountains?” Au contraire! It’s a trick question. You can savor the delights of all four in the French Alps, specifically on Lakes Geneva and Annecy in the Haute-Savoie region.
Stroll a cobblestone old town in the morning, spend the afternoon biking on mountain trails overlooking a sprawling turquoise lake, and end the day dipping in that same lake just in time to catch the sunset from one of its beaches. It’s the perfect formula for the traveler who doesn’t want to choose. You don’t even have to decide between these two lakes – just an hour’s drive apart, it’s easy to knock both out in one trip.
Thanks to a recent invitation to visit Évian-les-Bains and Annecy, I finally put my rusty French skills and trusty film camera to use. Here’s how to plan a lovely getaway between the two idyllic lakeside destinations.
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How to get there: It’s best to fly into Geneva, from which you have a few options to continue to Évian. If you’d prefer to avoid a pricey taxi direct from the airport, regular train services depart from Geneva’s Cornavin station, and the journey is slightly over an hour. Alternatively, if you wish to begin in Annecy, a bus is typically your cheapest and quickest option.
Getting around: All you’ll need to explore Évian are comfortable shoes, though you’ll need to rent a car if you’re planning on outdoor adventures in the nearby Alps. From late April to September, Évian’s restored funicular, which dates back to 1907, glides visitors between the quays and major hotels every 20 minutes. The lanes beside the fairy-tale canals of Annecy’s Vielle Ville (old town) are strictly for foot traffic, but otherwise, everybody pedals around on a bike.
Where to stay: Initially a favorite holiday spot among French nobility for its thermal spas, Évian’s accommodation options today serve up an impressive range, from scenic campsites to ritzy resorts. I stayed at Évian Resort’s Hôtel Ermitage, a gorgeous historic property that dates back to 1908, perched up the hill overlooking Lake Geneva. In Annecy, I checked into Les Trésoms, a swanky resort on a forested hill with sparkling views of Lake Annecy and the city.
What to pack: For my spring trip, I brought a light jacket, swimsuit, athletic clothes and fairly casual clothes for exploring – it’s very laid-back here since everyone’s so active. I packed a pair of white jeans for evenings out.
When to go: Like most of Europe, this region sees its highest tourist count come summertime, but there’s truly nothing like a spring trip to France. In addition to fewer crowds and cheaper hotel rates, the energy in spring is electric. Just like visitors, locals are out in the city on the year’s first warm days, spending time on the lake, cycling and sitting outside cafes.
Day 1: A day on Lake Geneva in Évian-les-Bains
The vibes: Spa hub Évian-les-Bains has both an elegant and outdoorsy spirit. Throw in romantic Belle Époque architecture, blossoming public gardens and ideal proximity to the Alps, and you’ll find this tiny French commune has far more to offer than its legendary healing waters.
Morning: I oriented myself with a walking tour of the main town. Notable stops include the Palais Lumière, formerly the old hydrotherapy bathhouse that’s now host to various free exhibitions; Villa Lumière, which today is Évian’s palatial city hall; and the Buvette Cachat, a grand Art Nouveau-style former bathhouse right next to the original Source Cachat, the spring where anyone can fill their bottle with Évian water beneath a colorful mosaic. You’ll probably meet many locals on their weekly bottle-filling run as I did.
While wandering the cobblestone streets, look for secret passageways to dip into (public ones are visibly marked) and come out on a completely different street.
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The street up to the Buvette Cachat. Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet
How to spend the afternoon: I sat down for lunch at Umberto, an Italian spot (don’t worry – plenty of French cuisine awaits) on the bottom floor of Évian Resort’s Casino. It’s perfect for some quayside people-watching while digging into a bowl of fresh pasta.
And since you’ve probably come to Évian hoping to experience the powers of its therapeutic waters, a trip to Les Thermes evian® is in order. It’s a public spa, and the only one that actually uses the same water from the Cachat spring. However, wellness activities abound across Évian-les-Bains. I enjoyed a rejuvenating massage at Hôtel Ermitage.
End the afternoon with a hot chocolate – the divinely rich kind – outside Comptoir d’Arômes, which overlooks Évian’s place du marché (market square). On Tuesdays and Fridays, market days fill the square with activity.
Dinner: I walked over to Évian Resort’s Hôtel Royal for an upscale sunset dinner at La Véranda, just a hop, skip and a bridge from Hôtel Ermitage and with uninterrupted views of Lake Geneva. My haricot verts came in a tiny green French oven. Très mignon!
Day 2: Get to know Annecy’s Vielle Ville
The vibes: It’s often lauded as the “Venice of the Alps,” but Annecy merits its own distinctive accolades. There’s the Thiou Canal, cobblestone walkways and a magical medieval core with a castle to boot. And then there are sleek hotels and restaurants whose massive windows reflect the vivid blue lake, all backed by the drama of the Alps. Like I said, you don’t have to choose.
Morning: I made an early start on my journey to Annecy. The drive is a little over an hour, or it takes between two and three hours via public transport.
How to spend the day: Because I can’t resist another walking tour, I caught the major sights in the Vielle Ville in the morning because the afternoon gets a little too busy for my liking. Highlights included the Palais de l’Île, the famed stone structure and former prison that resembles a ship sailing down the Thiou; St Peter’s Cathedral, where many Catholic bishops were exiled after Geneva turned Protestant during the Reformation; the beautiful, neoclassical Notre Dame de Liesse, whose outside square and fountain are a fantastic place to rest your feet; and the Château d’Annecy, which towers over the old town and today hosts temporary art exhibitions.
Sundays and Tuesdays are also market days in the Vielle Ville, with plenty of local produce stands lining the narrow street. I hunted down skincare goodies at local pharmacies and admired the gifts and trinkets at Le Petit Souk. Note that many shops close on Sunday and occasionally on Monday.
Lunch was at Ô Bon Bec, a rooftop spot in Le Pelican, one of the sleek waterfront hotels. It’s a nice mix of French and global fare – though in Annecy, whose coat of arms is marked with a trout, fish is always a good idea. It’s hard to miss the ice cream shops on seemingly every corner in the Vielle Ville. Le Glacier des Alpes is a favorite that’s been around since the 1960s. I walked my ice cream to the lakefront park, Jardins de l’Europe, to hop on an hour-long cruise of the lake with Croisières des Alpes in the afternoon sunshine.
Dinner: My phone’s step count indicated a trip back to the hotel was in order. I ate dinner at one of the on-property restaurants, L’Atelier: roasted beets, mushroom risotto and the kind of chocolate mousse that’s probably graced your social feeds and left you envious.
Day 3: Exploring around Lake Annecy
Morning: It’d be a downright shame to come to Annecy and not jump in the lake (weather permitting). It’s often praised for having some of the purest water in Europe. Prime plages include the Plage Municipale in Sevrier and Place de l’Impérial, which is closer to town but charges an entrance fee.
How to spend the day: I enjoyed lunch canalside at Auberge de Lyonnais, a chic hotel with a remarkable story, having played an important role in the French Resistance during WWII.
On day one, I circumnavigated Lake Annecy by boat. On the second day, I made the scenic tour by e-bike, otherwise known as a tour du lac. You can rent bikes and self-plan the excursion (we have a guide for that), but I found my guided three-hour tour with Mobilboard helpful for both context and pacing. Most of the lake loop is easy to follow via a two-way path, which you should pull off to explore villages like Duingt and Talloires.
Aperitif: Rest your legs and order a drink at the newly opened Le Cabanon while the sun sets over Annecy. I met a friend for a glass of prosecco on this lively outdoor bar’s dock, which sits next to a pétanque court and a herd of tables beneath pretty string lights hanging in the trees. It also hosts nighttime DJ sets and food trucks, but I walked to dinner just across the street at Lôna.
Dinner: On the first floor of the Hôtel Rivage, Lôna is a fine-dining experience emphasizing local ingredients. As a nod to Annecy’s symbolic trout, the trout ceviche was an obvious choice for me. The meal ended with a French classic, mille-feuille, which is traditionally sandwiched with puff pastry but, in this case, used a satisfyingly crispy filo.
After dark: Wrap up the trip with a drink at Café des Arts in the Vielle Ville. It’s a longstanding establishment that, by day, is ideal for people-watching with a coffee. At night, swap the mug for a bottle of wine and great conversation.
Ann Douglas traveled to France on the invitation of the Evian Resort, Auvergne Rhône Alpes Tourisme and Lac Annecy Tourisme. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.