One of the undisputed joys of a visit to Tokyo is a tasty, affordable bowl of noodles. And while Japan counts many noodle styles, including soba (buckwheat noodles) and udon (thick white wheat noodles), ramen holds a special place in the hearts of Tokyoites. So whether it’s a quick meal on the go, a hearty snack to end a night of drinking on the town or just whenever the craving strikes, this guide will help you enjoy the best of this famed dish right alongside the locals.
A historical primer: What is ramen anyway?
Ramen is said to derive from the Chinese word lamian (pulled noodles), for which a substance of wheat and water was kneaded and twisted into long, thin strands beginning some 3000 years ago. Fast-forward to the turn of the 20th century, after Japan ended its period of sakoku (national seclusion). Chinese immigrants brought the dish to port cities around the country, including Yokohama, where the now-renowned Chinatown bloomed. Ramen eventually made its way to the Tokyo metropolis and, decades later, became a staple in the food stalls that cropped up amid the poverty of the post-WWII period. The trend spread as chefs experimented and added personal touches.
What differentiates ramen from other flour-based noodles is its special color, flavor and texture, due to the addition of kansui (an alkaline salt solution). Wavy or crinkly noodles can be created by kneading and stretching them by hand; plumper, more filling noodles come from an automated device that pressurizes them.
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Ramen is made up of five distinct components: broth, sauce, flavored oil, noodles and toppings. The broth comes from simmering ingredients such as beef, pork or chicken bones with bonito shavings, dried sardines, kelp and vegetables such as dried shiitake, onions and ginger – creating deep flavor. Sauces mix bases of miso, salt, shōyu (soy sauce), curry and similar ingredients with other extracts and umami-rich elements such as pork back fat and flavored oils. Taste profiles can range from light and subtle to dark and rich, with an endless number of possible combinations.
Ramen is largely a regional affair. Tokyo-style ramen is known for curly noodles, pork- or chicken-flavored broth accented with shōyu and dashi, and toppings of char siu (barbecued pork slices), menma (preserved bamboo shoots), nori (toasted seaweed), greens, diced spring onion and a sliced boiled egg. Tokyo being Tokyo, however, you can find most of the regional styles of ramen here too, including the cloudy pork-based tonkotsu version from Kyūshū; butter-corn miso ramen from Hokkaidō and black ramen – featuring dark shōyu and pepper – from Toyama.
Eating ramen like a local
So you’ve found a ramen shop. Now what? Your first task is to determine the method of ordering. Some shops have a vending machine right outside (or inside) the entrance, where you select your desired type of ramen, along with any toppings. Ramen normally runs around ¥700–800 (US$4–5), with an extra ¥100–200 (US$1–2) per optional extra ingredient. Some machines are cash only; some cashless; some accept both. If there is no machine, you’ll be presented with a regular menu.
Some establishments prompt you to indicate your preferred noodle texture, soup flavor profile and amount of oil. It is also often possible to order your noodles as tsukemen (dipping noodles), which come without broth but with a separate bowl of dipping sauce. Finally, as a nod to ramen’s Chinese heritage, many shops offer gyoza and shumai (dumplings), both an excellent accompaniment.
Since many shops do not have English explanations, ask for assistance if you do not have a translation app (plus check the phrase guide below). If the shop is not too busy, staff are often happy to help bridge communication gaps.
Once you’ve ordered, you’ll have a few minutes to sit back and chill. Take this time to peer into the gigantesque pots and woks where all of the magic happens and survey the condiments. These can include sesame seeds (sometimes with an attached grinder), beni shōga (red pickled ginger), minced garlic, doubanjiang (chili bean sauce), shichimi (seven-spice powder) and takana (mustard greens). Grab a glass of water (many shops have self-serve stations), and if you like spice, look for the box of tissues normally on hand – you’ll likely need them. When your steaming bowl arrives, take your cue from the noisiness of the patrons around you and get slurping!
Some shops to get you started
As the world’s largest metropolis, Tokyo has boundless choices for top-quality ramen, and any list of where to go is a subjective affair that’s likely to spark heated debate. That said, these establishments produce superb bowls.
Afuri
At its numerous locations in and around metropolitan Tokyo – as well as one in Hokkaido and several overseas – Afuri specializes in yuzu shio, a salted, citrusy broth accented with chicken and ginger. The low-carb noodles crafted from konjac (a type of yam) are a unique menu addition, as is the vegan option.
Matsutomi
I stumbled across this place tucked inside the Ginza backstreets when I could not get into the adjacent, ever-crowded Kagari ramen shop – and I was not disappointed. The yuzu shio ramen, which came with spectacularly chewy noodles and packed with veggies, including baby corn and carrot, was served in a light broth flecked with glorious citrus shavings. Other options include spicy tantanmen and extra meat versions. The real deal.
Mendokoro Umekichi
Located on a side street of Aoyama-Itchōme (on the edge of Roppongi, along the perimeter of the Imperial Palace), modest Mendokoro Umekichi serves ramen versions that include a shōyu bowl with perfectly textured noodles, a disc of ultratender char siu, a pile of spinach and thick spears of menma floating in a pleasantly light broth created from sardines, horse mackerel, herring, chicken bones and a touch of yuzu peel. This is Tokyo-style ramen at its purest.
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Tachihira Shiobuta Ramen
Complementing the base of intensely flavorful pork- and chicken-based broth and razor-thin noodles, the array of accoutrements here include yuzu koshō (a spicy citrus paste) and garlic sheaves. Try the ramen with roasted garlic oil and consider an order of delightfully plump and meaty gyoza. With its location along Shibuya’s Dogenzaka and 24-hour policy, this shop is perfect for postclubbing late-night cravings – just know that it closes when the broth runs out.
Yokohama Ramen Okamoto
It’s no stretch to understand why this place is usually packed with university students: the mild and rich broth made from chicken, pork bones and shōyu is accompanied by a generous pile of spinach along with the usual toppings, and ramen dishes come with free servings of rice and green pickles. The “ladies option” halves the amount of noodles – hungry ladies, take no offense. The shop is located near Komazawa Olympic Park, which is the venue for a yearly autumn Ramen Festa, featuring the newest styles from vendors around the country.
Shops serving twists on the classics
In addition to the tried-and-true styles, Tokyo has no shortage of places to get your fix of ramen with a creative touch, so try one of these options if you feel like mixing it up.
Bassanova
This shop’s genre-transcending signature dish, Thai-inspired green curry soba, features a thick, rich broth bobbing with springy noodles, tender bamboo shoots, a charred wedge of chicken and just the right touch of fishiness, all dusted off with freshly ground sesame seeds. Its atmosphere and playlist exude Shimo-Kitazawa vibes, although it’s located a short walk (or train ride) from the district. Bassanova has a sister location in Harajuku.
Mikaku
This tiny, basement-level spot in Toranomon, where you order at the front upon arrival, takes spicy to another plane. Consider the mapo dofu, a fiery, bubbly clay pot of soup that you ladle over a bowl of thick, hand-carved noodles. Paper aprons are provided, but – and you can trust me on this – be safe and just don’t wear white.
Oreryu Gyoza Meshi
Admire youth culture and edgy art at Harakado (Harajuku’s newest shopping complex), then head into the side streets to dine at this basement-level gyoza joint, which also serves swoon-worthy ramen. Hot tip number one: order the tomato ramen, featuring hunks of tomato and minced pork in a cheesy broth along with a generous serving of capellini-thin noodles topped with Parmesan and mizuna. Hot tip number two: pushing the ¥280 (US$2) fried chicken button on the ticket machine will get you a half order (three pieces) of intensely flavorful gyoza to accompany your ramen, though you’ll probably want to go for the full plate.
Ten to Sen
Located in Shimo-Kitazawa, where soup curry rules, this stylish establishment serves up the ramen equivalent: steaming bowls of spicy noodles in a pork-based broth loaded with a medley of colorful vegetables. You can choose your level of heat, and vegetarian and halal options are available.
Tokyo Aburagumi Sohōten (Tokyo Abura Soba)
Don’t let the name fool you: these are not buckwheat soba noodles but crinkly ramen, and this Tokyo specialty can easily become an addiction. While abura translates as “oil” or “fat,” the bowls here actually yield fewer calories and salt than traditional ramen. They are served without broth – you flavor the noodles by using the squeeze bottles of vinegar and rayu (chili oil). Make two to four circular motions around your bowl to taste. A cool ¥880 (US$6) fetches you a regular, large or extra-large bowl (the spicy miso version is another ¥100), with a lengthy list of add-on toppings, some of which are free. Don’t miss the yuzu koshō. Stores are located around the country, plus several in Taipei.
From chain shops to trends
Ramen is truly available anywhere, anytime, in Tokyo. Locations where you are likely to find quality ramen are train stations (browse the offerings at the two-story Tokyo Ramen Street underneath Tokyo Station); the city’s numerous yokochō (food alleyways) – try Shibuya Yokocho for ramen versions spanning the Japanese archipelago; and department stores, like the stylish Parco complex in Shibuya, where the basement has a branch of Mensho, an innovative farm-to-bowl ramen shop from a team of young restaurateurs, self-proclaimed “hyper ramen creators,” who have expanded their concept brand to several overseas locations.
Also consider ducking into one of the popular chains in the capital, such as Ichiran and Ippudo (both specializing in tonkotsu). Meat lovers will appreciate Ramen Butayama, which layers hefty hunks of pork with cabbage and bean sprouts in a thick pork-based broth.
Finally, it would not be Tokyo without a quirky food craze, and ramen is no exception. Rahmen & Onigiri Eddie, located near Shinjuku-gyoen, makes a frothy cappuccino ramen served in a coffee mug that has rich porcini flavor and a side of truffle oil.
Another recent ramen fad: vending machines specializing in restaurant-quality frozen ramen. This might be hard to pull off if you are staying in a hotel, but it is a fun alternative for those with access to a kitchen. This site (in Japanese but with maps) lists locations for such machines around Tokyo.
On the more sophisticated side, visit Uzu, a vegan ramen restaurant at the TeamLab Planets exhibition in Toyosu, and dine against the backdrop of ethereal art from the legendary digital art collective (open through 2027).
Beyond ramen: Other noodle dishes to try
The endless ramen and ramen-adjacent dishes in fact do not even begin to scratch the surface of noodle offerings in Japan. Additional types include udon, which are thick and chewy noodles served in a clear dashi (there are numerous creative variations at Yamashita Honki Udon). Similarly popular are soba, which are thinner and earthier tasting; for the ultimate authentic experience, order a bowl at one of the outdoor shops in the Jindaiji Temple complex in Tokyo’s far western region of Chofu, which specializes in soba to a degree that it grows its own buckwheat in neighboring fields.
Useful Japanese phrases to order and customize ramen
Make your ramen dreams come true by using this collection of phrases.
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Hontō ni oishii desu: This tastes delicious.
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Bejitarian no mono arimasuka: Do you have vegetarian options?
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Kaikei o onegai shimasu: Can I please get the bill?
Ramen preferences
Texture (Gokibou no men no katasa)
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Yawarakai: soft
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Futsū: regular
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Katai: hard
Soup flavor profile (Gokibō no sūpu no aji)
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Usui: mild
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Futsū: regular
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Koi: rich
Amount of oil (abura no ryō)
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Sukunai: little
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Futsū: regular
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Ōi: plenty
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Nashi: none